Running, but barely cool
A loaded indoor filter and a dirty evaporator coil choking airflow, or low refrigerant charge.
Full coil and blower-wheel clean, filter replacement, then temperature split and pressure readings to confirm the charge.
Annual service windows for November and December are open now — cooling season bookings fill from the oldest systems down.
Request a windowStone Room is a servicing-only air conditioning workshop. We clean, measure and repair the systems already on your walls — annual services booked ahead, and fault-finding when a unit stops behaving mid-week.
Most calls begin with one of these six behaviours. Here is what each usually means and the work it leads to, so you know roughly what you are booking before you book it.
A loaded indoor filter and a dirty evaporator coil choking airflow, or low refrigerant charge.
Full coil and blower-wheel clean, filter replacement, then temperature split and pressure readings to confirm the charge.
Biofilm in the drain pan and tray that has never been flushed, holding damp between cycles.
Chemical pan and tray treatment, drain line flush, barrel clean, and a check that the condensate run still falls the right way.
A blocked or back-pitched condensate drain, or a pan overflowing because the coil has iced and thawed.
Clear and vacuum the drain, re-set the fall on the line, dry and reseal the pan, then wet-test the unit before we leave.
Fan-blade imbalance from debris, loose mounting bolts on the outdoor unit, or tired anti-vibration feet.
Strip the fan guard, balance and clean the blade, re-torque the frame and replace mounts where they have gone hard.
Restricted airflow or an undercharged circuit. Keep running it and the compressor wears early.
Switch the unit to fan-only, let it thaw, then leak-test the circuit and correct the charge rather than simply topping it up.
A failed capacitor or contactor, a seized fan motor, or a control board that has taken a surge.
Electrical fault-find with meter readings at each stage, then a written repair-or-replace recommendation with the parts named.
Not sure which one you have? Describe it in your own words in the booking notes. A rough description is enough for us to bring the right parts on the first visit.
We only quote work we can specify. Each lane below lists what is actually done, how long it takes in a typical home and the systems it suits.
The annual clean-and-check for a single wall-mounted head and its outdoor unit. Best done before you need it rather than during the first hot week.
Several indoor heads on a shared condenser, or a ducted system with a return-air grille. More heads means more drains, more filters and a longer visit.
A diagnostic visit for a unit that has stopped cooling, started leaking or thrown an error code. We find the cause first and price the fix second.
Nobody enjoys guessing how long a tradesperson will be in the house. This is the order of work, every time.
We confirm the window the day before. On arrival we look at every unit on the list, lay drop sheets under the indoor heads and tell you which rooms we will need clear access to.
Each system runs while we take airflow and temperature readings, so there is a before-and-after record rather than just a clean-looking filter.
Coils, barrels, filters, pans and drains, then the outdoor unit. If we find something outside the booked scope we stop, show you, and let you decide before any extra work starts.
Everything gets reassembled and wet-tested, the site is cleaned down, and you receive written notes with the readings, what was replaced and when the system is next due.
Air conditioning fails in the weather that makes it work hardest. Spreading small tasks across the year keeps the expensive parts out of it.
Once a year for a normal household split, and that is enough. Move to twice a year if the system runs most of the year, sits near a busy road or the coast, or shares a home with pets that shed. Ducted systems with return-air filters benefit from a mid-season filter change between full services.
No. Washing the filters is maintenance you can do yourself. A service goes past the filter to the evaporator coil, blower barrel, drain pan and condensate line, plus the electrical connections and operating readings. Filters are the five-minute part of a ninety-minute job.
Usually it is biological rather than mechanical — damp sitting in the drain pan and on the coil. A chemical clean and drain flush clears it. If the smell is sharp or electrical rather than musty, turn the system off at the isolator and book a fault-find instead.
A sealed system should not lose refrigerant, so a low charge means there is a leak. We test and find it rather than refilling a circuit that will empty again. Where a repair is viable we price it; where the unit is near end of life we say so plainly instead of selling a top-up every summer.
Yes, with the owner or managing agent's approval, since the work touches the building's equipment. Mention it in the notes and we will send the scope and findings to whoever is paying, so the paperwork lands in the right place without you relaying it.
A clogged coil makes the compressor work longer for the same room temperature, so yes — a clean system reaches the set point faster and cycles off sooner. We will not promise a percentage, but we do record the temperature split before and after so you can see the airflow change for yourself.
The number of indoor units, whether it is split, multi-split or ducted, roughly how old the system is, and what it is doing wrong if anything. A photo of the indoor unit's label is a bonus — it tells us the model and refrigerant type before we arrive.
Tell us the system and the symptom. We reply with two possible windows and a written scope — no visit is booked and nothing is charged until you confirm one of them.